Jeremy's Journey

Embraced

2005-12-10T22:18:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Since returning home I have felt embraced by the people around me...both figuratively and literally. A reality of being transient is that hugs are few and far between. So when I came home I soaked up the loving from everyone around me, especially the unexpected ones.

One of the "Old Timers" in the neighborhood who hangs out in front of our house was in jail when I left back in May. So it had been almost a year since I had seen him. When I saw him the first morning I was back he hugged me dead on, then stepped back saying "Ahh man" and hugged me again about 5 times.

When I walked into work on Monday morning, my boss got up from his chair embraced me and said, "Glad to have you back."

I even noticed a difference in the way my loved ones hugged me. It seemed like everyone held me for an extra second, as if to internalize the reality that I've physically returned and I'm in one piece.

Don't tell my brother and sisters, but I noticed my grandma gave me a bigger hug than them when I went home for Thanksgiving.

The Little Things

2005-12-10T21:50:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Since I've been back from my journey, a few people have said something to the effect of, "I enjoyed reading your blog, you did a nice job of extracting the details of everyday life and making them interesting." I appreciate the compliment but it wasn't something that I was consciously doing. Now that I've returned to a "normal" over-stimulated lifestyle, I realize that such writing was really just a product of living a simple life. The simplicity of my life boiled down to two major categories: 1. Surviving 2. Pushing the pedals of my bike for 8 hours a day over the course of 6 months.

Thankfully I found great meaning in these 2 tasks. Such a life allowed me time to notice people...their actions, their weird patterns, and their words. For me, these acute observations are what help me make sense of humanity and provide a source of peace. Today I realized that since returning to Camden one month ago, I haven't allowed myself the time to do these things.

When I got out of bed this morning, my mission was simple: To walk alone through the streets of Camden and Philadelphia with a spirit of mindfulness and reflection.

My soul was filled by the little things that I was able to experience...A young mother in the train station putting her nose on her baby's head and taking a wiff. I could practically smell the 'new baby smell' as I watched from 10 feet away. I took the time to pick up trash on the street as I waited for the walk signal at an intersection. I sat in unofficial 'homeless section' of the Philadelphia Free Library and was serenated by a chorus of snoring. These are the things that remind me of the beauty of being human. I need more days like today.

Where Do We Go From Here?

2005-11-15T22:04:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

It's become very natural to sharing sharing my words on this blog. As the end of the journey was closing in I wondered if I could just stop writing cold turkey. After all, everyday life isn't as exciting as biking across the country.

On the plane ride home, Fr. Michael passed me a note. It started with a poem that read:

For oft, when upon my couch I lie
In vacant or in pensive mood
They flash upon that inward eye
Which is the bliss of solitude

He clarified that "they" for William Wordsworth referred to daffodils. Yet for me "they" are the scenes, situations, people, feelings of the pilgrimmage from Camden to Mexico by way of Canada and the Pacific on a BICYCLE...The blog should go on with the Reflections of Jeremiah.

How can I pass up the advice of a great writer. So now that I am stationary and I have the time to lay on the couch in pensive mood, I plan to still write when I "they" flash upon my inward eye. I'm not sure how often this will be, but please check on me now and again.

Newspaper Articles

2005-11-15T21:31:00.000-08:00

Check out 2 newspaper articles that were written about my return to Camden:

Courier Post

Philadelphia Inquirer

The Importance of Community

2005-11-15T20:49:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I had the chance to say a few words to the congregation on Sunday. I tried my best to express how crucial their role was over the course of my journey. On May 22nd I was sent out of Sacred Church annointed by God and also a cloud of witnesses. For this reason I was able to travel for almost 6 months by myself and yet never feel lonely. It's a paradox that's hard to explain. Knowing that this community and many others were following the words that I wrote and responding with prayer, was a daily source of comfort.

I also wanted to communicate that I never questioned whether I would return to Camden. My journey presented my senses with some beautiful things. Yet I realized that beauty is a very personal thing. Camden and the community of people that I have found there reflect to me the Kingdom of God...which I have found to be more attractive than anything else.

Lastly I am truly grateful for the way people have financially contributed to the 'healing of Camden'. Over $30,000 has been raised. This money will go towards efforts that allow the people of the Waterfront South neighborhood breathe air that is as fresh and clean as the air that I took into my lungs throughout this country. It's ultimately a matter of loving our neighbor...the second greatest commandment.

Washing of the Feet

2005-11-15T20:29:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

As I mentioned earlier, Fr. Michael doesn't take milestones lightly. As such, he wanted my entrance into Sacred Heart Church on Sunday to be as special as my exit. He told me to show up for mass late with my bike and wait for him to announce my arrival after the homily.

I showed up late waited outside the church. Two photographers from local papers were waiting for me. One was a Dominican fella who works for the local Catholic paper. I remember him from the day I left the church on May 22nd. He brought his whole family to meet me. He had me posing with his sons and gave them strict instructions to tell all their friends about me. I felt like a celebrity.

This picture is the only way I can describe my reception from the congregation on Sunday. I walked down the aisle with my bike surrounded by smiling, welcoming faces...is was like being consumed by a cloud of love. Father had me sit down and he washed my feet..."the very feet that pushed the pedals for 7,100 miles". It was a humbling and honoring moment.

Home Sweet Home

2005-11-15T20:17:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday I flew back to Camden, accompanied by my good friends Elissa, Andrea and Fr. Michael. I was greeted at the Philadelphia airport by a group of my housemates and wisked back into the loving arms of America's Most Dangerous City...home sweet home. I must say it felt great to be back. I toured myself through the house, noticing all of the improvements that had been made since I left. We all sat down to a feast prepared by my housemate Cassie. It was great to look around the table at so many faces that I had missed. Not to mention, the opportunity to talk and laugh and celebrate with a group of people who care for me understand me so well.

Mexican Fiesta

2005-11-15T20:05:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

After the parking lot celebration Fr. Michael, Andrea, and I walked across the border into Tijuana, Mexico to make it offically a three country journey...U.S., Canada and Mexico. We were in search of the best fish tacos we could find. All of a sudden the fella with us in this picture, Pepe, welcomed us into his restaurant, bicycle and all. We asked if he had fish tacos and his answer was, "The best!"...we had found the spot.

We toasted the occasion with Tequila and Corona. Fr. Michael got a kick out of the Tequila shot ritual, with the salt and the lime...but he learned quickly. He said, "So I lick the salt like a deer?" I mentioned that Corona translates to 'crown' in Spanish. Father lifted his glass and said, "To the crowned prince of cylcing." I'm not sure if I deserve such a title but in the grandeur of the moment I gratefully took it in. As I sat at the table it felt like the whole world was celebrating the moment...it was anything but anti-climatic (which I had thought it might be). At one point I got up to go to the bathroom and I realized that we were the only ones in the place, but as soon as I sat down again, I was consumed again by the 'cosmic celebration'. And for the record, the fish tacos were "the best" as Pepe promised.

The End of the Line

2005-11-15T19:41:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Andrea, Elissa and I left San Diego Friday morning on bicycles, making our way south to the border town of San Ysidro. Fr. Michael, Helene and her daughter Alissa, met us there via the trolley. We chose to celebrate the moment in a rough looking corner in the parking lot of the Greyhound Bus station...it reminded us of Camden. I popped open a bottle of champagne 'championship style' and we passed it around, everyone toasting and drinking straight from the bottle. This picture shows 'the poet himself' gracing us with his words. When he was done he took out his pen and very meticulously captured the moment on the newly boarded up wall behind him...holy graffiti. He made sure to document the final number of miles...7100. We talked a lot about that number throughout the day, trying to grasp how far it really was. We ended up calculating the number of times my wheel turned...each one a prayer for Camden. Over 7 million for those who are curious.

San Diego...The Final Stretch

2005-11-15T19:24:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I was greeted Wednesday night in San Diego by a friend named Helene, who is the executive director of the Heart of Camden (our neighborhood's non-profit housing ministry). Her daughter was wearing a bright yellow shirt that said, "Camden Will Heal---Jeremy's Journey 2005" (a shirt you will see a lot in the pictures I am posting). Helene gave me the king's treatment and took care of all the details to make the celebration special.

Thursday afternoon my housemates Elissa and Andrea arrived from Camden. Thanks to their encouragement I mustered up enough courage to plunge into that chilly water that I had been looking at since October 4th when I reached the coast. It was good to feel the power of the Pacific as the three of us body surfed. They were also committed to joining me for the final 30 miles of my trip into Mexico. I finished my ride the way I started...surrounded by my community.

Thursday night, Father Michael Doyle arrived from Sacred Heart. He's a man who believes strongly in honoring milestones. He is also knows the importance of manifesting the spiritual into the physical...a man of sacrament if you will. As such, he flew across the country to be physically present to celebrate the end of the journey. His presence meant a lot to me. When I came out to greet him he embraced me and kissed on the cheek 'Godfather' style, saying in his Irish brogue, "Now look at you, still in one piece...and these are the legs that carried you all this way."

It's All Coming to an End

2005-11-09T16:21:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Tuesday and Wednesday have been threatening rain and windy. It seems like when the weather's crappy the wind comes from the south. In other words, "When it rains it pours." As you can see from this picture, the kite surfers are making good use of the wind.
I camped out near the beach in San Clemente Tuesday night. I'm currently writing from UC San Diego. I have a sweet hook up in Mission Beach. A woman from the Heart of Camden, Helene, happens to be vacationing here. She's offered me hospitality. I'm also looking forward to the arrival of two of my housemates, Elissa and Andrea, along with Fr. Michael who are flying in tommorrow to be a part of the culmination of this journey. Andrea and Elissa will bike with me to Tijuana tommorrow.
It's hard to believe that it's all coming to end. I definitely have mixed emotions but this journey has offered me things that will hopefully always stay with me. More reflections to come later.

Back to Reality

2005-11-09T16:09:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

To balance all the high rollin' I've been doing in Southern California, I dipped into the bowels of LA around Long Beach. I found a great hispanic market where I was able to get some cheap pan dulce at the bakery.
I also went through a strip of polluting industry on the edge of the neighborhood. Interesting that I had to visit a minority neighborhood in order to discover such things. I took in some deep breaths in an attempt to condition my lungs for their return to Camden...they didn't go down as smoothly as they used to.

Venice Beach

2005-11-09T15:57:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I had two good nights in Santa Monica thanks to a hook up from an old friend. One of my teammates/friends from Marquette, Andrea, went out of her way to connect me with her sister, Anne Marie in Santa Monica. Anne Marie gave me free reign of her place while I was in town...many thanks to her.
After taking a rest day Monday I got back on my bike Tuesday morning. I started off on the boardwalk, taking my time to take in the scene at Venice Beach. I had a good chat with the "World's Greatest Wine-O", shown in this picture. He told me a joke about Bill Clinton. He has roots in Philly, in fact he was just back there for his mother's funeral. He still remembers his mother's church on 22nd and Bainbridge.

Dave

2005-11-07T18:10:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Today I met up with my buddy Dave from back in Crystal Lake. He's lived in LA for about 8 years. Dave spent a few days at the Camden House this summer during a trip to Philly for a sociology seminar. I was sorry that I missed his visit, but glad to catch up with him on his turf. Dave toured me through the city so I could take in UCLA and Hollywood. We talked about some important stuff, a lot of which revolved around the tension between recognizing privilege and engaging the suffering of this world. This tension was very real as we drove through Bel Air and talked about Camden. Many thanks to Dave for his hospitality.

Malibu

2005-11-07T18:08:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I spent Sunday biking from Santa Barbara to Santa Monica. The water was full of surfers, braving the chilly ocean in search of any swell they could find. I met a kid from Rhode Island at a hostel in Santa Barbara who said that the water is in the 50's...luckily he brought his thick wet suit that he uses in the Atlantic.
One of the more interesting stretches was through Malibu. I picked up a copy of the Malibu Times Magazine to study up on local culture. I read a very interesting article entitled, "Pet Palaces". It highlights a pet boarding facility where dogs can play on Astroturf-carpeting (flushed hourly for cleanliness), nap on Ultrasuede beds, have a massage or enjoy aroma therapy, or work out on a treadmill immersed in warm water.
It's scary that there's such disparity between the people of this world/country...but it's even scarier when I consider where I am on the spectrum.

Santa Barbara

2005-11-05T16:15:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a picture off one of the many vineyards I passed yesterday and today...another advantage of taking 101. So here I am in Santa Barbara, which definitely feels like Southern California...sunny blue skies, surfboards on top of every other car and the "movie star look" is definitely abundant. I've been checking out UC Santa Barbara. I feel like I've been on California college tour: Humbolt State, USF, UC Berkeley, UCSC, Cal Poly SLO, and now UCSB. Tommorrow I head for Santa Monica and the crazy LA scene.

Blowing Down Highway 101

2005-11-05T16:04:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Yesterday I decided that I needed to get away from the ocean for a stretch...a need I never would have anticipated a month ago. So I decided to jump on 101, which is an interstate at this point. It ended up being quite a ride. I was graced with a mad tailwind that pushed me at 25 mph on the flats and 45 mph on the downhills...which is about as good as it gets when you're pulling 60 lbs. The big shoulder felt like a runway, after trying to manage tight roads over the last weeks.
I decided to exit in Santa Maria for the night, a big suburb. It's been awhile since I've experienced true suburbia. It amazes me how similar they are across this whole country...Walmart is always next to Home Depot and Applebees is always next to Target. The closest thing I could find to a local eatery was In and Out Burgers, a California original (as far as I know). You got to respect a place that only 5 items: hamburger, cheeseburger, double cheeseburger, fries, and a shake.
I stumbled upon a Lutheran church that had a lot of land. I introduced myself to the pastor and he invited me into his office. He listened to my story and was very encouraging. He gave me a nice spot to set up my tent in the Spanish courtyard of the church and asked me if I needed anything else. I was appreciative for a place to stay and the pastor's kind spirit.

The Good Folks at B.O.B.

2005-11-05T15:42:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The trailer I'm pulling is made by a company called B.O.B., which stands for Beast Of Burden. They run their operation out of a warehouse in San Luis Obispo. Yesterday as I was passing through SLO (as the locals call it) and I decided to stop by and say hi. When I pulled up the workers started spilling out one by one. This picture is of James from sales and marketing who hooked me up with a cold beverage and a free new flag (I accidentially left mine back in Helena, MT). He talked to me about his bike trip to Costa Rica that he took recently and gave me some tips on how to bring BOB on the plane. Then one of the engineers came out and asked me what I thought of the trailer, pointing out all the strengths and weaknesses. I've got nothing but good things to say about BOB...good product and good people.

Reflection on Solitude

2005-11-04T13:40:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I've been reading this book called Reaching Out by Henri Nouwen. He describes three different tensions in the spriritual life, the first being 'loneliness to solitude'. I've obviously spent a lot of time by myself over the past 5 and a half months. I made a large effort to embrace the quiet...avoiding music, excessive reading, and other media. I feel like I've had an incredible experience of solitude and I feel like this book is helping me make sense of it.
I'm learning about a new form of solidarlity. Living in the Waterfront South neighborhood for 2 years before this trip granted me physical solidarity with some of the realities of Camden...breathing polluted air, subjecting my body to potential violence, and exposing my eyes daily to the destructive patterns of addiction. (I also recognize that my solidarity will never be complete because I have the choices that priviledge has granted me and not my neighbors).
Before taking this trip, I wondered if being physically separated from these realities would disconnect me from this solidarity. I've found that this hasn't been the case. Nouwen has helped me understand that by engaging solitude we create space within ourselves for the pain of this world...allowing ourselves to carry it in solidarity. I feel like this has been the case for me, especially because the story of the city and community has always been close to my mind, heart and voice as I've traveled.
For me, pulling my trailer has been symbolic. In the first week of the trip I realized that I was carrying too much and I had to mail some things ahead. In these last weeks I've again realized that I've accumulated more stuff than I need again. But I feel a new strength that is encouraging me to keep carrying the load. In the same way I feel as if my time of solitude in these months has created room in my heart to carry a bigger burden.

Elephant Seals

2005-11-04T13:16:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I stumbled upon this beach that was covered with a colony elephant seals. They basically just lay there occasionally flipping sand on themselves. When they do move it's quite entertaining. They basically do 'the worm' dance move down the beach. There is also an occasional fight within the colony, which is accompanied by a very loud throaty gargling sound.
Thursday night I stayed in a hostel in the town of Cambria. I met some cool folks.. Australians, a New Hampshirite, and a San Diegoian. We hung around in the living room chatting most of the night. The owner of the hostel had biked cross country earlier in the summer. He had 12 straight days of headwinds in Kansas going west to east...so maybe all those people telling me I went the wrong way are actually wrong.

Big Sur

2005-11-04T13:05:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Ever since leaving New Jersey when I would tell people that I was heading for California, they would say, "Don't miss Big Sur!" I must say that it lived up to the hype. This picture says a thousand words...jagged cliffs, different colors of water, crashing waves, sunny skies and tailwinds. It was like this for miles and miles. The road was tight and hilly but much more bearable with ideal conditions.
I camped out in a state park where I met a fellow rider about my age who was doing a week-long tour in the area. He treated me to breakfast on Thursday morning. He had recently bought a house with his girlfriend in the Sacramento area and she called him Wednesday night to tell him that taking a bike tour was selfish in the midst of all the work that had to be done on the house. I think talking with me over breakfast made him feel better...and the huevos rancheros made me feel better.

Change of Scenery

2005-11-04T12:49:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Thursday I got away from the ocean for awhile and cruised through some farm fields. The change of scenery was nice, plus it was nice to see massive amounts of crops other than corn and wheat, which dominated most of my trip. The fields were filled with cauliflower, cabbage, strawberries, and artichokes. The majority of the workers were Latinos, and somehow they are able to amplify Spanish music across the fields...which added to the enjoyment of the ride.

Sleeping with the Banana Slugs

2005-11-04T12:43:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Wednesday I crashed the UC Santa Cruz campus, home of the banana slug mascot. I endulged in the all-you-can eat dorm food...pizza, cereal, chicken and ice cream all available at the same meal. The campus was pretty low-key, I think everyone was recovering from Halloween. I hung around the library before retreating to the woods around the campus to get some sleep. I had heard that Santa Cruz is a lot like Arcata, with a big transient community. Supposedly a lot of them sleep in the same woods, but I didn't run into any of them.

Halloween to Santa Cruz

2005-11-01T17:46:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Last night I celebrated Halloween by tagging along with my buddy Rob at a Halloween party. I was introduced to the "young professional" San Francisco crowd...real estate brokers, dentists, engineers and lots of techies. Due to lack of options, I decided to go as a cross-county biker. Everyone else had very elaborate costumes. The funny thing was that the buzz around the party was that I went as the guy who won the second season of the reality show Survivor. Their reasoning was that my hair and beard resembled the guy from the show. Surely I must have been not grooming myself for months for my Halloween costume...it's the only way they could justify my lack of effort.
I woke up this morning with a bit of a hangover...I think a combo of too much candy and beer. But a nice 80 mile ride along the ocean to Santa Cruz remedied my headache nicely.

Friends in Oakland

2005-11-01T17:33:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Some old friends, Darin and Meeghan, live in Oakland. A few weeks ago they had their first baby, Justice, who's in this photo. My camera wasn't working, so I took this picture from Darin's blog.
Darin happened to be in Cuba this week, but I had a nice visit with Meegan and Darin's mom who was visiting from Omaha. I held Justice on 2 different occasions and both times he cried. Meeghan made me feel better by saying he was hungry the first time and needed to be burped the second.

Berkeley

2005-11-01T17:25:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Monday I took the Subway across the bay to Berkeley, a city that has always interested me. This is a picture I took while on the UC Berkeley campus. It's a group of singers/perfomers who were putting on a little Halloween show in between classes. It was quite the scene, campus groups ranging from Dodgeball club, Jehovah's Witnesses, fraternities, and political groups set up shop to solicit students as they walk past. Supposedly this happens every day.

Back to Another Time

2005-11-01T17:18:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday I stumbled upon a music festival in Golden Gate Park with about 20,000 other people. It was a tribute concert to a fella named Chet Helms. People described him as "one of the founding fathers of the psychodelic movement of the 60's" or "a hippie icon". He died recently of a stroke at 62 years old.
The whole scene felt like a time warp to what I pictured the 60's to be like...lots of tie dyed material, lots of long hair and lots illegal substances out of the open. One vendor who was a little more creative had a basket of brownies and would occasionally hold up a stick with a sign that said, "Nacho mama's brownies". I found out on Monday when I read the paper that I wasn't the only who felt the time warp. Lots of people who had experienced that era felt like Sunday was a flashback. One guy was quoted as saying, "Everything was the same except everyone looks so old now."
I've often wondered what happened to this generation...a generation that tried to redefine progress. A subculture that questioned: "Is our way of life and our economy worth the loss of thousands of lives in war?" "Will material wealth make me more happy than the previous generations?" "Is our level of consumption sustainable for this earth?"
Where has this generation gone? I saw Sunday that some are still hanging around San Francisco. I believe there are some who have evolved into a life more conducive to family but have still maintained their values. But I think a fair amount have joined the way of the life that they were resisting.
These are things I've thought about before because I feel like I am also a part of a movement that is trying to redefine progress...going against the flow of the American Dream in an attempt to seek the Kingdom of God. What will make this movement last?

Henri Nouwen, a very honest Catholic priest, says this about the peace movement 60's, "When our protests against war, segregation and social injustice do not reach beyond the level of reaction then our indignation becomes self-righteous, our hope for a better world degenerates into a desire for quick results and our generosity is soon exhausted by disappiointment...it was not deep enough, in the sense that it was not rooted in the solitude of the heart."

Church of the Sojourners

2005-10-31T12:12:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday night I attended a worship gathering with a church community called the Church of the Sojourners. I have met some of their members at different gatherings over the past 2 years, so it was nice to visit them. They own a string of houses in the Misson District of San Fran, a primarily hispanic neighborhood. Similar to the Church of the Servant King, whom I visited in Eugene, OR, they believe that to be the Church means more than worshipping together once a week. They live with one another, share their resources, and literally love their neighbors.
After the worship gathering I hung out with a group of folks from the group who are my age. We talked shop about community life and I had the chance to share about my bicycle journey.
This is a picture of Katie and Dan, who hosted me for the night. They take hospitality seriously...I had my own room with a basket with shampoo and snacks. They even packed me some food to take with me this morning. Many thanks to these good folks.
I just found out that there was an article in The Christian Century on "New Monasticism" that mentions a lot the communities I've visited as well as the Camden House. Check it out if you're interested. Click here.http://www.christiancentury.org/article.lasso?id=1399

Mr. Roberto

2005-10-30T13:18:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is my buddy Rob from Illinois. He's going San Francisco University studying Asian Pacific Studies. He spent the last 2 years teaching in China. I hadn't seen him in awhile and when I pulled up I said, "You look good Roberto." Rob, never one to mince words said, "You look like you've been on the road awhile." This is a picture of us after I got cleaned up.

I'm planning on staying here until Tuesday, which will give me 12 days to get to San Diego. I'm looking forward to taking in the city and resting up.

San Francisco

2005-10-30T13:09:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I spent Friday night in Bodega Bay camping at the Dunes State Park. I woke up excited Saturday morning because I knew I'd be in San Francisco by the end of the day. But the day kept getting better...the weather was warm, sunny and the winds were blowing south. It was the kind of day that made me forget how difficult the last few days had been.

I took this picture as I came over the Golden Gate Bridge into San Fran.

Traveling Community

2005-10-30T13:04:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Since hitting the West Coast, I've felt like I've had a bit of a consistent community along the way. There are a few bikers who I've crossed paths with more than once...I'll catch up after a taking some rest days or vise versa.

Yesterday I was fixing a flat on the side of the road next to a kite shop and I heard, "Jeremy!". It was the "Fun Bunch" that I had met back in Washington (the group of older women). They got sick of the rain and hills, and jumped in their van to head farther south before continuing biking again. They were telling the owner of the shop how proud they were on me and how I had become like their son on the road.

I've noticed that a lot of the people in cars respect how difficult the biking is along Highway 1. A lot of people pump their fists in support or give a little honk to show their support when they pass. One older couple stopped to introduce themselves. They said, "We've seen you every day as we've been travelling the coast, we feel like we know you."

Rain, Rain Go Away

2005-10-30T12:50:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Thursday and Friday brought more rain and wind. I must admit that it was one of the more difficult stretches of the journey...10 days since my last rest day, soaking wet and difficult roads. Highway 1 is a beautiful road, but there is little or no shoulder most of the time, blind corners and steep climbs. I find that riding in the rain often puts me in a zone because I know if I stop for too long I'll be too cold to keep going...so the fatigue and cold doesn't hit until the end of the day. But looking at the passing drivers with white knuckles and clenched teeth constantly reminded me of how intense the roads were. This picture shows some of these crazy curves.

Many people compare this area (South Mendicino County and South North Sonoma County) to Scotland and Ireland...high cliffs, sheep grazing, and of course rainy/foggy. It was beautiful when I had the chance to take it in.

Totally California

2005-10-30T12:33:00.000-08:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Every time I saw this sign it made me laugh, so I decided to take a picture of it.

Throughout the rest of the country you signs like this that say, "No engine braking within town limits...subject to $100 fine".

The California coast uses much more of the surfer tone. I was thinking they should change it to "Yo, easy on the engine brake bro!"

The Rest of the Route

2005-10-27T16:44:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the last of the maps down to San Deigo...about 620 miles from San Fran to San Diego via bike-friendly roads. If anybody has any hospitality options on any of these coastal towns, please don´t hesitate to let me know. I hear that it´s a little harder to find a spot to camp further south...plus meeting new people always gives me something to look forward to. E-mail me at jeremysullivan40@hotmail.com or give a call (609)280-9530.

San Fran to Santa Barbara

2005-10-27T16:37:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Heading for San Fran

2005-10-27T16:36:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Right now I´m in Point Arena, about 130 miles from San Franciso...I plan to be there by Saturday.

California Sunset

2005-10-27T11:44:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The clouds cleared last night, giving way for a beautiful sunset.

Best Downhill

2005-10-27T11:43:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Wednesday I got on Highway 1, which hugs the coast. It started with a gnarly steep climb and then a 2000' descent, with "S" curves all the way down to the ocean.

Avenue of the Giants

2005-10-27T11:41:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

On Tuesday I ended my ride on what's called the Avenue of the Giants, which passes through the Humbolt Redwoods State Park. Up until that point I was fighting a headwind and it was starting to rain. But once I hit the Avenue it was like I entered a huge cathedral...still, silent and dark. This is a picture I took the next morning.

Unfortunately the campground I stayed in that night wasn't as protected by trees...it was right on a river. It rained pretty hard all night. I thought I'd be all slick and set up my tent, take a shower and then jump into my sleeping bag all warm. But my plan backfired...my tent collapsed while I was gone and everything got wet. I don't think I've been completely dry since I hit the coast. My stuff is starting to smell the way my gym uniform did in junior high...during the wrestling unit in particular.

Arcata

2005-10-25T14:33:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

First off, this picture didn't quite turn out as I had hoped. In case you can't tell it's my bike in front of a big old redwood.
Last night I pulled into the town of Arcata, CA. I had heard that it was a college town, home of Humbolt State University. I soon discovered that it had a very prominent street culture...a sort of meeting place for old hippies and young transients. Many of whom were so tripped out that they couldn't hold a conversation. I read an article in the local paper in which the University present referred to the town as a "drug haven". I would venture to say that Arcata has more dreadlocks per capita than any other U.S. city.
As I got to town I started asking if there was a chill place to set up my tent. I discovered that no matter what you ask, most people's first response is, "You're looking for herb?" I later found out that it is common knowledge that homeless folks stay just out of town in the Redwood State Park, even though camping is prohibited and strictly enforced.
A kid working at a corner store sat down with me while I drank a hot chocolate and gave me the down low on the town. He said, "The old hippies from the 70's are all about peace, love and respect. But the younger ones are kind of sketch...they just dress like hippies to get more money from people."
The scene at the Redwood Park intrigued me more than it scared me, so I ventured up the hill in the dark. I got there about 11pm, not sure what underground rules were. Some kids informed me that you have to go deep into the forest to set up a tent, in fact there's a whole village back there. Luckily I ran into an older guy who took me under his wing. He carried his belongings in what appeared to be a trumpet case.
He methodically gave me different options, weighing the odds of being seen by early morning dog walkers vs. intruding on other people's space. He was also very meticulous about me getting 9 hours of sleep and having a very level spot to sleep on. He led me through the woods, which he had memorized, saying "OK turn 45 degrees to the right at the stump and then 52 steps forward 'green beret style'".
Sure enough he found me a good spot and I layed under the canopy of huge trees with just my tarp and sleeping bag. It was quite the process just to get some sleep but the whole experience was worth it.
I just bought a plane ticket from San Diego to Philly for Saturday November 12. Pray that they rest of the trip allows me to make it home without a hitch.

The Redwoods

2005-10-24T19:53:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

At one point today I stopped to touch one of these massive specimen of creation. I figure it's the oldest living thing I've ever been in contact with...they live up to 2000 years. I've tried to articulate the experience but I think John Steinbeck does a better job:

"The redwoods once seen, leave a mark or create a vision that stays with you always...from them comes silence and awe. The most irreverent of men, in the presence of redwoods, goes under the spell of wonder and awe."

Humble

2005-10-24T19:46:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

In the letter that I received on Sunday, my housemate Elissa shared with me that the spiritual connotation of the name Jeremy is "Humble". This was fresh on my mind this morning when I immediately encountered a steep 1000' climb under the canopy of the biggest trees I have ever seen. Needless to say, I felt very small....humbled.

Biking through the Redwoods was quite possibly the most awesome (in the literal sense of the word) scenes I have come across on this whole trip.

I once hiked through a rainforest in Alaska with my cousin Kevin. When we first entered the trail he looked around and in most sincere voice said, "Pardon my French but this place is fucking awesome." If I could ever steal this profound statement, today would be the day.

Incognito Pick Up

2005-10-24T19:29:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I was expecting a general delivery letter when I crossed into California. The problem was that it corresponded with a Sunday. I called the local post office and explained the situation. Not only did they trust me over the phone, but they went out of their way to hide the letter in this dumpster for me. Forget all those stereotypes about postal workers.

Milestones and Canucks

2005-10-24T19:24:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday turned out to be a day of milestones. First, it marked 5 months since I left Camden. Secondly, I crossed into California, achieving my original goal: Camden to California. Lastly, I told those who were willing to sponsor me that I would be travelling 3000 miles. I knew this was a conservative estimate, but I didn't know by how much. Well, I've now gone 6000 miles...twice my prediction. I never chose a destination city, in order to give myself the freedom to explore at my own pace. Right now I plan to be in San Francisco by the weekend. Ideally I'd like to end up in San Diego. I plan to return to Camden about 2 weeks before Thanksgiving.

Sunday I also ran into a fun group of Canadians. We rode together most of the day and then camped out together in Crescent City, CA. It was a nice change of pace, but it reminded me how easy it is travelling alone...a concensus of 5 takes a lot longer than 1. The three women in the group work as forest fire fighters in the summer and travel the rest of the year. One of the guys Jarrett boasted that he saved up enough money working at a mico-brewery to have not worked in 23 months...and counting. They're on their way down to the Baja. We're all looking forward to that warm California sun.

Gold Beach

2005-10-24T19:07:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday night I stayed in a town called Gold Beach. As I was crossing the bridge into town I heard these obnoxious sounds. It turned about to be a posse of seals who like to hang out on the pier next to the harbor.
The only available camping in the vicinity was a cookie cutter RV park that charged $20 per night. I couldn't justify that kind of cash for a piece of land to lay my tent, so I waited until dark and camped on the beach. I'm still struggling to be an early riser, even when I have to...so by the time I emerged from my tent in the morning, people were walking by giving me strange looks.

Bandon

2005-10-22T11:41:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

My destination last night was Bandon, OR. I had a very interesting first impression of the town. There is one big intersection in town. On one side of the street there was a group of people waving American flags and holding signs that said "Support Our Troops". They were very vocal trying to get people to honk. I actually got whacked by a couple of zealous flag wavers who had overtaken the bike lane. On the other side of the street was a group of people wearing black. The stood in silence and held a sign that read, "Justice Without War"...my heart stood in solidarity with them.
I had heard of a hostel right on the water. I got there at the same time as 2 other guys who were also traveling down the coast. There were only 2 beds left. Fortunately the woman at the desk agreed to let me sleep on the floor...and hooked me up with a nice discount.
I went out for a couple of beers with my roommates. Ronald is from Holland. He started his travels in Alaska and is making his way to Costa Rica. He met up with Alex in Seattle, an Englishman who bought a car in Boston and traveled across Canada and is now making his way to South America. We went to a "towny" bar that had a cover band playing and slot machines in the corner. Both of my companions thought it was a trip. They kept asking, "Is this a typical scene in America?". Alex, an Engineer by profession, was constantly analyzing things and comparing them to "back home". Ronald was more of a laid back Dutchman who sat back with a smile on his face bobbing his head to the music.
I took this picture this morning. I've come to really appreciate the sunshine. Even though every day is a weekend to me, there's nothing like going for a bike ride on a sunny Saturday morning.

Katie

2005-10-21T15:29:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is Katie. I met her when I was hanging around with the folks at Church of the Servant King in Eugene. She met me this morning on the coast in Florence. She biked with me for about 30 miles and then biked back to her car because she has to work tonight.
She's originally from Palatine, IL. She's quite the biker. She went to Indiana University and was part of the Little 500 madness. For those of you who aren't familiar with the event, it's a bike relay race on a track. All members of the team use the same single gear bike. I had the chance to witness it once when I was visiting a friend there. Who knew that Indiana is a biking mecca?
It was nice to have Katie's company...she has some good insight. She works at a shelter for kids between the ages of 11 and 17 who are homeless. She was also very curious about what's going on in Camden. Not to mention she left me with all kinds of treats.

Moment of Clarity

2005-10-21T15:18:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I like this picture because it's one of the few I have with clear skies. If you look closely you'll see a lighthouse on the cliff.

Into the Fog

2005-10-21T15:17:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I've encountered fog at some point each day. Often times there will be dense fog at the top of a climb and then clear at the bottom of the hill.

Laundry Partner

2005-10-21T15:13:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the my partner in crime at the laundrymat in Tillamook. I took this picture because I liked his sweatshirt...interesting juxtaposition of the old guy with long gray hair wearing gangsta garb. Plus if he saw me take his picture it would have given him another reason to yell at me.

Coasting Along

2005-10-20T16:59:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

It rained for about 24 hours straight after I wrote 2 days ago. I hung out in the local Tillamook Laundrymat to keep warm...plus it gave me the chance to catch up the telenovelas on the Spanish channel. The only other person in there was a rough-looking old fella who I think had the same idea as me. In fact, I think I was invading his territory because he kept telling me to move my stuff. I don't think he was all there because he smelled like he had been hitting grandpa's cough medicine pretty hard.
I set up my tent in town next to the Catholic church. I appreciate the priest letting me do so, but I was disappointed that he only gave me 30 seconds of this time.
I had a great ride Wednesday, rain and all. The smell of the ocean alone did it for me, not to mention the cliffs and fog and sand dunes. Plus I knew I had a warm place to stay at the end of the day.
My buddy Tim (the one who got married this summer) contacted me Wednesday morning. He started by confessing that he had only checked my blog 2 times before, but yesterday was one of them. It just so happens that his new in-laws have a place in Newport, OR...my destination for the day. The place was beautiful, you could see the ocean from the back deck. There was a woman named Joya who rents the place. She basically gave me the place to myself all night and was kind enough to make me breakfast in the morning. She is a traveler herself, so she was excited to help me out.
Tim and I aren't the best at communicating with eachother, but we always seem to be in sync with our timing. We forget eachother's birthday every year, but we always randomly call within a day or two anyway. The timing yesterday is just another example. I called him this morning to thank him and he said, "Sully, God always takes care of you man." He's right.

Oregon Coast

2005-10-18T18:05:00.000-07:00

jer
Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Today I cycled about 80 miles from Portland to Tillamook, Oregon. I had to cross the Coastal range...a strip of mountains I didn't know existed until a few days ago. Tommorrow I will head south down Highway 101 down the Coast.

Old Friends

2005-10-18T18:00:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the Dronsfield family: Dan and his girlfriend Adriana, and John and Cheryl (parents). They took me out to dinner Monday night. I stayed with John and Cheryl Friday night but Dan Adriana had just gotten into town.
Dan is an aspiring film maker. He shoots his stuff on 8mm film. He leaves tommorrow for his first film festival in Hawaii...remember his name.
Being with them brought back a lot of memories from when I was a kid. They say smell is associated with memory. When I went to bed and smelled the sheets, it brought me back to being a kid sleeping over at their house.
John gave me a ride back to Portland this morning (he had business there). He even bought me breakfast before we parted. Many thanks to these good friends.

Church of the Servant King

2005-10-18T17:52:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday through Monday I stayed with some folks who I had met two summers ago at a gathering about the New Monasticism. They call themselves the Church of the Servant King. Like the early Church they live in community and make sure there are no needs among them. They have about 6 houses, all within a few blocks of eachother. Each house is a mix families and single people. They own a building with a coffee shop (called Theo's--see picture), bookstore, organic pizza shop and they run a publishing company. Almost everyone is involved in these ventures, which sustain them financially.
Everyone went out of their way to make me feel welcome...inlcuding a bike tour of the city and some good meals. I stayed in one of their extra rooms that they reserve for hospitality...there was even a bottle of fancy water and trail mix on my bed (like a hotel).
I attended their worship gathering on Sunday night. It began with breaking of bread and burritos and ended with a trip to the micro-brewery for refreshments afterwards...not to mention a beautiful liturgy in between.

Pre's Rock

2005-10-18T17:38:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the spot where Pre died. It's known as Pre's Rock. I did a run from the University to Pre's trail and then up a long hill to the rock. It felt right to be sweaty and out of breath as I took in the site.
I heard that his car flipped and landed on top of him. People speculate that he was able to hold up the car for awhile with his incredible strength but ultimately it was too much before anyone arrived. That night he was dropping off his friend Frank Shorter after a party, which was a celebration of the first meet that Pre had organized.

Prefontaine

2005-10-15T15:52:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Hayward Field (Oregon's Track) is known as the "house that Pre built". Steve Prefontaine was one of the great hopes of American distance running in the 70's. He's drawn a lot of attention because he died in a car accident in 1975 here in Eugene and everyone has wondered 'what if' ever since. Both my high school and college coaches were big fans of Pre, so I've learned a lot about him over the years.
It is said that physiologically he wasn't all that impressive. In fact, I used to volunteer for studies in college at the local VA hospital to make some quick cash. One of the pulmonologists had worked with Pre in the 70's and told me that my VO2 max was actually slightly higher than Pre's. Some say his ability came from an incredible pain tolerance and a lot of courage.

Tracktown USA

2005-10-15T15:44:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Eugene is known as one of the running meccas of the country. I had to take a visit to the Oregon University track...one of the rare venues that packs 17,000 people together for a track meet. In fact, it was just decided yesterday that they will host the Track and Field Olympic Trials for 2008.

Eugene

2005-10-15T15:41:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Eugene is an Oregon town that was definitely intriguing to me. My dilemma was that I knew if I cycled south to Eugene I would miss half of the Oregon coast (another priority). I decided I would compromise by a taking a bus ride down to Eugene and then head back up to Portland and hit the coast on my bike again.
I called some old family friends, Dronsfields, in Eugene to see if I could meet up with them. Their sons Dan and Drew are the same ages as my brother Dan and I. They moved to Eugene when I was 12 and I haven't seen them since. I talked to Mrs. Dronsfield and found out that Drew is a dive master in Malaysia and Dan is at a 'barter fest' in Tonasket, WA (a town I biked through). They invited me out nonetheless. In fact, Mr. Dronsfield picked me up in Portland on his way home from a business trip in Seattle. I had a great time catching up on the last 14 years with them. I'm going to stick around until Tuesday morning so that I can see Dan and catch a ride back to Portland with Mr. Dronsfield.

Save the Farm

2005-10-15T15:25:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Everyone who lives on the farm, lives as a tenant. Last year the landlord decided he wanted to sell the land to a developer for 1.5 million dollars. The farm is more than a place to live...it's a way of life and a model of sustainablity. So everyone who lives there (16 people in all) decided to save the farm themselves.
They started by raising $125,000 to buy the purchasing agreement from a local contracter who planned to build on it. They now have until January to come up with the rest of the 1.5 million. They've held fund raisers and received $100,000 from the city of Portland. They've recently achieved status as a non-profit organization and are applying for grants. If you interested in learning about their situation or donating to save the farm, check out their web site: tryonfarm.org

Permaculture

2005-10-15T15:18:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Tryon Farm in Portland follows a design/philosophy known as permaculture, which stands for permanent sustainable agriculture. The design is set up in way that mimics nature. Nature has tools that protect it from catastrophe. One of these is diversity in space (shape, size, physical pattern). For example, if a hurricane hits a trailer park, the trailers blow away, but the mice, bacteria and elements of different size remain. Whereas, a plague of cats strikes at the scale of mice, leaving the trailers and bacteria unscathed.
So on the farm most of the vegetables aren't planted in rows, but rather in groups that benefit one another. Vegetables that require shade are planted under the fruit trees and beans are planted next to the corn so that they can grow up the corn stalks. My description doesn't quite do justice to the concept...but it makes a lot of sense to me.
By the way this picuture is of a sauna that is almost complete. It was built as a natural building experiment, made out of cob.

My Digs on the Farm

2005-10-15T14:53:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the walled tent I got to stay in on the farm....I only had to share it with the slugs that would creep through the door while I was gone. I've come to appreciate the opportunities I've had to have my own space in certain places. Although I have my own tent, it's hard to do anything other than sleep in it.
The farm backs up to a state park so Friday I had the chance to go for a run on some sweet trails.

Portland

2005-10-13T16:54:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I made it to Portland last night. I called up a woman that I met at Rabbitstick, who lives on a farm within the city limits. Her housemate gave me "bike directions" over the phone. You can get anywhere in this city via bike lanes. I've noticed there's a distinct respect between drivers and bikers here. When I went to hang up I said, "Thanks for the directions" and Brenna said, "Thanks for being a biker"...I knew I was going to the right place.
Everyone who lives at Tryon Farm (where I'm staying) agrees to live in community. As I sat at the dinner table last night it reminded me a lot of our community in Camden..even the food. After dinner I sat quietly trying to match up characters from their community that reminded me of certain people in my community.
I'm staying in a walled tent that belongs to a guy named Kerrke who is off practing primitive skills. This morning I was able to earn my keep by stacking a big delivery of wood for the winter.
I spent the rest of the day biking around the city discovering many hidden treasures. The picture above is of a bicycle co-op. I also bought a new helmet today because mine has officially fallen apart. It was the only helmet I've ever owned...given as a Christmas gift from my sister Katie many moons ago. I hate to see it go but the new one feels so darn good.

Lumber Country

2005-10-13T16:40:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a shot I took as I was crossing the Columbia River into Oregon. I swear the air smells like wood everywhere in Oregon. I find it interesting that any town within 5 miles of a saw mill has wood chips in the gutter. I also got a nice glimpse of Mt. St. Helens to the east but the picture I took doesn't do it justice.
Ever since Montana I've noticed an interesting juxtapostion that exists in many small western towns: the 'old school' folks who have always depended on natural resource-based economies like lumber and mining; living next to people who have moved to these remote areas to live in harmony with the land. One sees the land as a way to make a living, while the other would like to see the land heal from years of damage. Most believe that nature will naturally heal itself if we give it the chance. In the midst of these differences, it's interesting to see how some folks are able to come together as a community and others are polarized.

Route Update

2005-10-11T14:19:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Monday I left Seattle via ferry to Bremmerton (see map). I started making my way south down the Peninsula again. Instead of heading straight for Astoria, OR, I will cross the Columbia River in a town called Longview, WA and head for Portland...where I should be tommorrow (Wednesday).

Down Mothertrucker

2005-10-11T14:09:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Last night I stopped in a town called Elma for dinner. By the time I finished it was completely dark and foggy as all get out. There was nowhere to camp in Elma but I heard I could camp for free behind the grocery store 7 miles down the road.
So I set out in the fog, following the river with a light attached to my helmet.
I was almost there when all of a sudden three dogs come bolting after me from a farm yard. In the deepest, scariest voice I could muster I yelled, "DOWN...DOWN MOTHERTRUCKER!" Those dogs must have sensed my wrath because all three of them immediately stopped in their tracks.
As I continued down the road and the adrenaline wore off, I laughed out loud that in my fight or flight response, I chose to use the word "mothertrucker". Why not, it's a great word. In fact I used it again today with a few dogs...successful each time.
As you can see from this picture, it was still foggy this morning...eeirily beaufiful.

The Fun Club

2005-10-11T13:57:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Yesterday I was biking along and all I could see was a cluster of bright green and I heard a bunch of clapping. It ends up they were cheering for me. They were in the midst of tour along the coast. Quite an interesting group of women. One just turned 70 and another recently had a knee replacement. They were having a lot of fun. They were very motherly, very interested in the details of my trip and constantly saying, "I'm so proud of you." They even gave me their cell phone number in case I needed something down the road.

The Cupping Experience

2005-10-11T13:51:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Sunday morning Emily and I stumbled upon what is called a "cupping" at this coffee shop called Victrola. It's kind of like a wine tasting, but with coffee. Here's the process:
1. Smell the dry ground beans
2. Add water that is exactly 200 degrees and let it sit 4 minutes
3. Scrape the crust off the top of the cup, stick your nose in there and take a big wiff
4. Take a spoonful of coffee and make a ridiculous slurping sound in order to aspirate it into your nose and mouth

Most people took notes during the process, keeping track of all the flavors they sensed. I just started drinking coffee on this trip, so it all tasted like...coffee. So I took notes on what everyone was saying, which was much more interesting.
There were baristas from the cafe walking around to discuss the experience. I think we had the most interesting one. He was wearing a black t-shirt, which in pink letters said, "Victrola coffee makes you gay". He talked very passionately about how, "the sultry full body Brazil Cerrado makes a perfect base for the expresso blend." He then compared it to the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, which "makes you go oooh with its fruity high notes...making a great drip coffee."
The fella in this picture, Tony was a wealth of information about coffee. He informed me that coffee is the 2nd most traded product internationally, next to oil. He explained that buying more for a high end coffee and knowing where your coffee comes from insures that money is actually going to the farmers who grow it. He also said beware of the shops posing as high end (Starbucks) who are often disconnected from their farmers.

Emily

2005-10-11T13:31:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is Emily (as you can see she's a little camera shy). She took good care of me while I was in Seattle...she even showed me where the secret key was hidden to her house so I could come and go. She gave me the unofficial tour of Seattle, which includes the house where Kurt Cobaine committed suicide and the local co-op. She's currently studying to be a yoga teacher and moonlights as a cocktail waitress at a Morrocan restaurant to pay the bills. I just met Emily when I was visiting a friend in Colorado but by the time I left it felt like we were old friends.

Rainier

2005-10-11T13:25:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

My uncle Bobby (shown in this picture) took me to Rainier National Park on Saturday. We had a great hike, exploring this little glacier they call Mt. Rainier. Highlights include a black bear, an eagle, some deer and a nice milkshake on the way home. Bobby is trying to organize a group to hike to the summit next summer...which might give me a reason to come back.

D-Lance

2005-10-11T13:18:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is my buddy Dave. We both ran for Marquette back in the day. Dave is in his 2nd year of law school at Seattle University. We went out for a couple of beers on Friday night to catch up on old times. In addition to dedicating his time to being a top notch student and snappy dresser, Dave finds time to help coach his old cross country team in Bellevue, WA (just across Lake Washington from Seattle).

Seattle

2005-10-07T11:26:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Wednesday I bike 90 miles down the Penninsula from Anacortes to Bainbridge Island and then took a short ferry ride into Seattle. I was able to get in touch with a new friend Emily, who I had met in Colorado when I was visiting my friend Libby at Guidestone Farm. Emily was visiting Libby's roommate that weekend and invited me to stay with her if I made it to Seattle.
On Thursday she showed me around the city. She explained that the personality of each neighborhood is often captured by the local coffee shop. The one we went to in her neighborhood, a predominately gay community, had a cupcake theme. I decided on a chocolate cupcake with pink frosting and coconut on top. I'm finding Seattle to be an interesting city...very hip, but it seems to lacking the diversity you find in the East.
Last night I met up with my uncle Bobby who's lived here for about 5 years. He's the project manager on a series of buildings being built on the University of Washington campus. He promised me the best salmon I've ever had...and he was right on. It was great to hang out with him and catch up on old times. He's given me free range of his apartment, so I've been taking advantage of having my own space.
The plan is to hang out here in the city through the weekend. Tommorrow me and Bobby are going to go for a hike. From here I'll head towards Portland, OR.

Bill and Linda

2005-10-07T11:06:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

When I was boarding the ferry to Lopez I met Linda, who works on the boat. She was intrigued by bike set-up and the story of my journey. When it came time to get off, one of her co-workers handed me her number and said that she and her boyfriend could give a place to stay in Anacortes. So that night I decided to go back to the mainland and give a call.
Linda welcomed me with open arms and a good meal. She explained to me that she had just moved in with Bill less than a week ago and they were still getting used to eachother's patterns. I wondered how he would react to her inviting strangers crash at his place. But when he came home, he didn't even act surprised. We sat around and chatted like old friends.

Lopez Island

2005-10-07T10:53:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Tuesday I took a ferry to Lopez, one of the San Juan Islands. I chose Lopez because I heard it was the most bike-friendly of the islands. The culture of Lopez is like a throw back to the fifties blended with progressive America....everybody waves on the road, a lot of white picket fences combined with organic food stores, yoga studios and bumper stickers that say, "Pull Cheney, Flush Bush".
I biked to a an isolated shore of the island (shown in this picture) and watched an interesting interaction between a duck and a seal. The seal would dive down for fish and when it would come up for air, the duck would steal bits of fish from its mouth.

Mr. Frazier

2005-10-07T10:42:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a nice man who was kind enough to let me use his pump to fill up a leaky tire when I was cruising around Lopez Island. He called me Mr. Sullivan and I called him Mr. Frazier. He's lived on the island for 32 years. When I met him he was working on his garage doors. His advice to me was, "If you ever buy a house, don't have wooden doors." His words to me as I was riding away were, "I admire your courage...biking across this country." A good man.

The Midnight Dip

2005-10-07T10:36:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is documentation of dipping my tire at the stroke of midnight October 4, the Feast of St. Francis. The picture was taken by new friend Carlyn who had biked across the country this summer and happened to be camping at the same campground that night.

Sunset Beach in the Daytime

2005-10-07T10:33:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the spot where I dipped my tire in the Pacific, Sunset Beach in Anacortes, WA (when you can acually see it).

Northwest Forest

2005-10-07T10:31:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The wet mossy forests here have such a different feel compared to the dry Rockies

Mountain stream

2005-10-07T10:29:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This was a common view as I was descending from the Cascades

Eco-House

2005-10-07T10:28:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is the house I stayed in during my visit with Eric and Twig near Twisp, WA. This is a shot of the south facing window. It's shaped in a series of "U's" made out of tires filled with soil and then covered in stucco. That wooden shack on the left is the sauna I mentioned in a previous post.

The Cascades

2005-10-07T10:24:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This is a shot I took when I was making the final push over the Cascades

San Juan Islands

2005-10-04T12:01:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

The tire dipping ceremony turned out beautifully last night. It started with a celebratory pint at a local Irish pub. When I got back to my campsite I met a young woman who herself had just biked from Virginia to Oregon this summer. She recently got a job in Anacortes and is living out of her car/tent because she can't afford housing here. We followed the same route through much of the country so we had a lot to talk about. We even challenged eachother with 'best of' and 'worst of' stories. She shared some wine and homemade taquitos with me to toast the moment. She even took a picture of me dipping the tire at midnight.
On the other side of the country four kindred spirits awoke promptly at 3am to share the moment with me...Andrea, Elissa, Melissa and Fr. Michael. They passed the phone around and I had the chance to exchange words with each one of them. I can't wait to celebrate in person.
Before going to bed I stood alone on the shore for awhile and took it all in...a combined prayer of thanks and praise. Happy Feast of St. Francis.
Today I will be island hopping on the San Juan Islands, maybe even staying the night on one of them.

The West Coast Dip

2005-10-03T17:49:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This picture shows the spot where I started my journey on May 22nd 2005...a pier in the Waterfront South neighborhood surrounded by dirty industry, facing west towards the skyline of Philadelphia. Well I've biked quite a ways west (with a few jogs north and south) and today I reached the Pacific Ocean.
I dipped my rear tire in the Atlantic Ocean and blessed my bike on a training ride on May 14th. Today I got a phone call from my housemate Elissa relaying a message from Father Michael (shown in this picture) that it's very important that I wait until midnight before dipping my front wheel in the Pacific. The reasoning is that midnight marks October 4th, the Feast of Saint Francis, a saint who cared deeply about all of creation, simplicity and peace. As these have been conistent themes throughout my journey, it seems appropriate that I share the occasion with St. Francis. At midnight I will go to Sunset Beach here in Anacortes, WA and cermonially dip my tire. At the same time (3am EST) Fr. Michael, group of my housemates, and maybe a few others will go to the pier that I left from over 4 months ago. We will both build a fire and prayerfully toast the moment together from opposite sides of the country. Feel free to celebrate with us in your own way.

Almost There

2005-10-03T16:48:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday I took on Washington and Rainey Pass...the last obstacles before the coast. I must say they didn't come easy. There was snow/hail falling on the the top of Washington and rain on Rainey (what do expect).
It was quite the feeling of accomplishment when I crossed the threshold on the last pass. I got off my bike and did a little Irish jig...partly to celebrate and partly to keep warm.
It was much later and darker than I would have liked by the time I started to make my decent. Cruising at 30 mph down a mountain at dusk is pretty exhilarating but not safe. I decided to tuck away in some woods on the side of the road and finish the decent in the morning.
I woke up to sunshine and was glad I waited to see all the vistas in the daylight. I couldn't believe the contrast between the rainforests of the Cascades compared to the dry Rockies (you'll have to wait for the pictures).
By afternoon it was raining again, but I had a great ride anyway...it was a classic fall ride, cruising the backroads covered by a canopy of reds and yellows. By the way I've been eating apples like crazy---gotta eat what's local. I've seen up to 10 varieties at some roadside stands.

I spent the night in a town called Sedro-Woolley. A woman at the local video store let me hang around the store until it closed so that I wouldn't have to be in the rain. I could tell she felt bad when she had to close up...she offered me a free drink as a consolation. I set up my wet tent in the rain at the local park. When I woke up some guy came by in a golf cart to tell me had camped in the wrong part of the park...I just plead ignorant (which I was). Fortunately I was also greeted by clear skies and a short ride to the coast.

Sauna

2005-10-03T16:38:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Saturday morning I woke up at dawn with Eric and he started firing up the sauna (which looks like an outhouse with a wood burning stove in the middle.) His housemate Twig had come home in the middle of the night and he joined us too. The routine went like this: sit in the sauna for about 20 minutes, then go outside and hose off with cold water and stand naked for about 10 minutes in the chilly morning air...repeat. I made it through the first 2 rounds but dropped early on the third because I almost passed out.
Twig explained that after the first frost many Native Americans would do this routine for a week straight (using a cold stream rather than a hose). From what I figure from a physiological standpoint, they were training their blood vessels to dilate and constrict in order to regulate their body temperature. I like to think of it as 'strength training' for your blood vessels.
Twig was a great guy too. He's currently studying something called Somatic Experiencing, which is used to help people heal from trauma.

Eric

2005-10-03T16:28:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

(I have all kinds of pictures from the Cascades but unfortunately I'm unable to download them from my camera here.)
Friday evening I made it over Loup Loup Pass despite some chain dysfunctions. I picked up a package in Twisp, WA and then met up with a friend of Digger's, who lives up in the hills about 10 miles from town.
Eric and his wife Cameron were both at Rabbitstick. His wife was gone for the weekend, so I didn't have the chance to meet her. Eric was glad to take me in, he and Cameron had biked around the big Island of Hawaii for 6 weeks.
They currently live in a house that is essentially made out of tires, which are each filled with 100 lbs of soil and then covered in stucco. The entire south side of the house is windows. The tires hold in an incredible amount of heat. Supposedly the house stays at about 50 degrees even when temperatures outside are subzero. They rely on solar power for all of their energy needs.
Eric made dinner, which consisted of him walking around the yard and collecting whatever vegetables were still viable after the frost...and then putting them in a bowl.
We sat around and had some good conversation. I showed him the pictures of Camden. He was actually there once during a cross-country tour raising awareness about endangered species. They towed a huge salmon behind a truck. Eric lives pretty close to the earth these days. He actually grew up in the suburbs of Baltimore and says it's often hard to feel like himself when he goes back. He likes to live in the wild because it forces him to take more responsiblity for himself. He said living in Camden probably isn't too different in a lot of ways. He was encouraged to see the way Sacred Heart has embraced its neighborhors. He said, "I don't know if I'd ever go into a church again, but it's good to know that a fraction of the Church still cares about the same things that Jesus did."

Crazy Weather Patterns

2005-09-30T12:33:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I've learned that the Western slopes of the Cascades (in addition to your prayers) are great protectors from the rain. They deflect much of the moisture-laden winds of the Pacific upward. The town I'm in now, Okanogan, only gets 12" of precipitation each year (it's all sage brush like in this picture). But 100 miles west of here they get 100" of precipitation. The mountain passes are lush green pines and then you descend into desert-like conditions. Interesting stuff....I've never experienced anything like it.

Passin' On

2005-09-30T12:23:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I camped out the last two nights in the valley and it's been unusually warm and no rain. I've found that when it's warm in the morning I'm much more motivated to wake up early, which allows me to prolong my morning rituals. Yesterday I stood outside the local gas station drinking coffee, waiting to wake up. There was an old man next to me having a smoke. We had one of those classic early morning conversations where you oblige one another with small talk but use as few words as possible...the type of conversation that you often happens over a bowl of cereal. Ours went something like this:
"Where you going?"
"Towards Tonasket."
"You going up Sherman Pass?"
"Yep."
"It's a long pull."
"So I've heard."
"Got your rain gear?"
"Yep."
"Good luck."
"Thanks."
And then we were able to safely resume to our coffee and cigarette.

Well, I made it over Sherman Pass and it was a long pull. But I didn't need my rain gear...thanks for all the prayers. I also made it over Waucanda Pass,,,2 down and three to go. I spent the night in Tonasket. Shannon of Shannon's Homemade Ice Cream lets bikers camp out on the side of the store. The highlight of the night was when a guy passing on the street offered me his leftover pizza. Food always tastes better when it's free.
Tonight I'm hoping to meet up with a couple who are friends of my mountain man friend Digger. They live near Twisp, WA and were also at Rabbitstick.

Follow the Water

2005-09-28T15:19:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Lately I've been guided by waterways as I cruise the back roads of Washington. This picture is of the Pend Oreille river which I hugged all day yesterday.
Speaking of water, word on the street is that rain is on the way. Having been such a dry summer, I can't remember the last time I broke out my rain gear. But I'm bracing for about three days of wetness...I guess that's what the Pacific Northwest brings. Keep me in your prayers because they're calling for snow above 5000', which will affect me on those mountain passes that I mentioned yesterday.
Tonight I plan to stop in the Kettle Falls area.

Where I'm Going

2005-09-27T17:50:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This map shows you my route for the last stretch to the West Coast (click on the map if you want to see a bigger version). I started a little bit outside of Sandpoint, ID this morning. I will be spending the night here in Ione, WA tonight. I'm about a day away from the Cascade Mountains, which will challenge me with a mountain pass a day for about three days. If I'm feeling frisky tommorrow I might go for the first one, which will be 4000' over 30 miles. Keep me in your prayers.

Where I've Been

2005-09-27T17:40:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I thought I'd post this map to give you an idea of the route I took with my parents. We started in Missoula, went through Glacier via Going to the Sun, then up to Alberta and over to Fernie, BC. We connected Fernie and Eureka, MT via route 3 (which isn't highlighted on the map). I parted ways with my folks in Eureka and cycled 150 miles to Sandpoint, ID (which is where my next visual aid starts).

Hey Ho I'm in Idaho

2005-09-26T16:15:00.000-07:00

(The title of this blog was adapted from the Idaho spuds jingle I remember as a kid.) I spent Sunday riding with the Kootenai Reservoir on one side and the forest on the other. I passed through Libby, Montana and thought about everyone I know named Libby. I found some free camping in some national forest outside of Troy, MT. Troy is known as, "The lowest elevation in Montana". I think the people there have a bit of a complex because everyone I asked for directions made sure to point out every hill that I would have to go up.
This morning I crossed into Idaho and the Pacific Time Zone...which makes the west coast seem near. This will likely be my only night in Idaho before I hit Washington. I plan to eat a potato-rich dinner.

Digger

2005-09-26T15:43:00.000-07:00

As I was coming out of the the laundromat in Eureka, MT I bumped into a barefoot buckskin wearin' fella. It happened to be the infamous hide tanning guru 'Digger' from Rabbitstick. He didn't recognize me but I told him I had seen him the week before. He's one of the guys you could tell is the real deal...his bare feet look like tough leather. He immediately offered me a place to stay. He lives out in the woods, but he was passing through town on his way to visit some friends. He invited me to come along to the potluck/drumming party. He was with his friend Starlight Kompost and her son Tarin, who I also met at Rabbitstick. The three of them are in the picture above.
It was a great night of conversation, food, and music. After we ate we gathered in a room with all kinds of drums and people jammed out together. I felt very comfortable with everyone...I just grabbed a drum and banged along.
I stayed at Digger's outside of town. He gave me a spot in his hut to lay my sleeping bag. He lives completely off the grid...no electricity, no plumbing. He drinks "wild" water from a spring on his land. He even uses dried moss for toilet paper and his outhouse it not much more than a hole in the ground.
When I woke up there was a fire going outside and Digger was emerging naked from the nearby mountain stream. His whole body was steaming...there was frost on the ground. He says he does it year round, even if he has to break the ice. Like I said, this guy is no joke. He cooked up some beans and tea on the open fire and supplied me with some dried fruit for the road. When I looked in the bag later, I discovered he had given me $100 for Camden...quite an offering from a certified mountain man.
I found Digger to be intriguing as all get out. He lives more simply than anyone I know, yet he kept asking if I needed anything. He said, "I have more than enough stuff if you need anything." I asked him about his name and he said his given name is Doug. But he realized it was past tense (dug). He likes Digger because it's present tense and symbolizes that his life is a process. I like that.
There are certain people you meet who embody the way of Jesus and they may or may not call themselves Christians. I find that I meet them in the strangest places. There's a lyric in a song by the group Over the Rhine that says, "Last time I saw Jesus I was drinking bloody marys in the South...she wore a dark and faded blazer." Interestingly enough as I was leaving the laundomat on Saturday I was going to meet Jesus at the 5pm mass up the street...but I believe he met me before I even got there.

An Ode to my Folks

2005-09-26T15:30:00.000-07:00

Well my parents have come and gone. They came prepared for the worst (as you can see from all the gear they had to pack)...but everything turned out perfectly.
It was important for me to be able to share the experience of this journey in more than just words and pictures. I think it was appropriate that my parents were they ones to share it with me. They seem to understand me about as well as anyone...probably more than I realize. I don't take this for granted because I don't know many people who can say the same about their folks. I think this is largely because my parents have not only supported me in everything I've done but they've also made an effort to enter "my element", embracing even the details. I remember the first time they visited me in Camden they dressed up for our Halloween party, slept on a futon in my room, and biked down Broadway with me and my housemates.
I don't know if I've ever thanked my parents publicly for being my parents, hopefully this won't be the last. Thanks Mom and Dad.

Unexpected Century

2005-09-26T15:14:00.000-07:00

Friday morning we woke up thankful that we didn't get the rain/snow that was predicted. So we set off for the 77 mile trip to Fernie. Thanks to a misreading of the map on my part, it ended up being an even 100 miles. It's one thing if you make a mistake when you're on your own but it stings a little more when other people have to suffer the consequences too. But my dad got to go home with his first century...so he's got that going for him. We treated ourselves to a stay in a hostel/hotel for the night. I think I actually sleep better in my tent, but it was nice to be warm when we faced the early morning cold. I took a nice walk with my mom in the evening. Fernie is literally surrounded by mountains, it's a big skiing and mountain biking town.

Oh Canada

2005-09-22T18:53:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

Today we crossed the border into Canada. The border patrol guy joked that I need a new passport photo because "I look like the lead for Jesus Christ Superstar". I have long hair and a beard in the picture.
As you can see in this picture the fall colors are in full swing here. There's something comforting about the feeling of fall.
Tonight we're camped out in Pincher Creek, Alberta. Tommorrow we head for British Columbia. Keep us in your prayers because the temperature is dropping and they're calling for rain.

Last Stop Before Canada

2005-09-22T18:48:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

We camped in this spot, which happened to be behind a gas station. The sign said "Last stop before Canada." Props to my mom for being cool with the shady set-up. She actually commented that she liked it.

Hiking at the Summit

2005-09-22T18:45:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

My mom met me and my dad at Logan Pass (the top of Going to the Sun). We went on a nice hike, which included some beautiful sights and some mountain goats.

Going to the Sun

2005-09-22T18:43:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

We made it to the top of Going to the Sun Highway without a problem...thanks to beautiful conditions, determination, and an extra bowl of oatmeal for breakfast. It starts to really climb 12 miles from the top and doesn't let up once. The highlight of the ascent was spotting a black bear only about 20 feet from the road. He was feasting on a berry bush. We would see him get on his rear legs and pin down a branch and then we wouldn't see him again until he was ready for another one.

Number One Pit Crew

2005-09-22T18:38:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

This has been a typical scene. My mom can make PBJ sanwiches on a car trunk like nobody's business. She always has a creative comment when she passes by too. I'm too embarrassed to write most of them on the blog.

The Team

2005-09-22T18:36:00.000-07:00

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Originally uploaded by jeremysullivan.

I've gone from a solo rider to a part of team...we've even got our own uniform. I'll take this 53 year-old teammate any day. He doesn't let me slack on the uphills, he's got a few good stories and he even buys dinner at the end of the day.